Each day, at around 11am, a strange combination of sounds – excited laughter, lots of splashing, the occasional burst of trumpeting – can be heard drifting through the village of Sauraha in southern Nepal: elephant bath time has begun. This ritual takes place in the Rapti River, which separates Sauraha from Chitwan National Park, home … Continue reading
“I sit beside the dark / Beneath the mire / Cold grey dusty day / The morning lake / Drinks up the sky / Katmandu I’ll soon be seeing you / And your strange bewildering time / Will hold me down.” Katmandu, by Cat Stevens For many travellers the neighbourhood of Thamel is Kathmandu. This … Continue reading